Color without oxidant: why does it matter?

Dyeing your hair has become such a common practice that most people simply trust the colorings sold in supermarkets or applied at the salon without asking questions. Yet, these products deserve special attention, and in this article, we’ll explain why you should be cautious about the oxidant used in synthetic dyes.

What exactly is an oxidant?

The oxidant is an essential part of conventional, chemical hair coloring. It is typically made with hydrogen peroxide, which works by opening the cuticle of the hair so that synthetic pigments can penetrate deep inside.

There are oxidizing creams with or without ammonia, but beware of misleading advertising! When a hair dye claims to be “ammonia-free,” the ammonia is inevitably replaced with another chemical molecule that plays the same role, and is often even more harmful. While ammonia has been demonized for its strong, pungent, and irritating odor, the truth is that it is a naturally occurring gas, unlike many of its substitutes.

Why avoid oxidant-based hair dyes?

Applied directly to the scalp, a part of the body covered with very thin skin and richly supplied with blood vessels, oxidants and, more generally, oxidative dyes are harmful to health. Recent studies have even established a link between frequent use of chemical hair dyes and an increased risk of developing breast cancer in women.

These hair products also carry a high risk of allergic reactions. Most oxidative dyes on the market contain paraphenylenediamine (PPD), a highly allergenic ingredient that can trigger severe and even life-threatening reactions. The hairdressing industry still remembers the case of Estelle, a 19-year-old student who nearly died from suffocation after using an oxidative dye. She had shared shocking photos of her swollen face after being hospitalized, caused by a violent allergic reaction to PPD, raising awareness about the dangers of this component.

It is estimated today that 2 to 3% of the population is allergic to PPD, and the French National Research and Safety Institute (INRS) classifies it as a toxic agent when inhaled or in contact with the skin. Similarly, the American Contact Dermatitis Society named PPD “Allergen of the Year” back in 2006.

Beyond the health risks, conventional oxidative dyes are also damaging to the hair fiber itself. By opening the cuticle, they permanently alter the hair’s structure. With each application, hair loses quality: it becomes dry, lengths and ends tend to break, and shine disappears. Not to mention the dreaded root effect, that unsightly “barcode” look, especially visible on gray hair, which forces people into frequent dyeing sessions, creating a vicious cycle.

And finally, one last but crucial point: oxidative dyes are not biodegradable, making them harmful to the environment. By choosing a hair color without oxidants, you not only protect your health and your hair but also contribute to preserving the planet and safeguarding water resources.

Only one solution: plant-based hair coloring

Contrary to what big names in conventional cosmetics and advertising claim, there are really only two types of hair coloring:

Oxidative coloring (also known as chemical coloring)
Plant-based coloring

All so-called “in-betweens,” such as semi-plant-based coloring or tone-on-tone coloring, are misleading. The reality is simple: either a hair dye requires chemical ingredients (including the infamous oxidant) to penetrate the hair fiber, or it is made exclusively from pure, 100% natural dye plants, mixed only with water.

From this perspective, recognizing an oxidative dye becomes easy: if the coloring involves mixing multiple products (for example, a cream and a developer), then you’re dealing with oxidative coloring. In contrast, a true plant-based color always comes in powder form, natural colorants are dried under the sun and finely ground into powder to unleash their full strength.

And what about bleaching?

Here again, greenwashing abounds. Despite enticing marketing claims, natural bleaching is impossible: by definition, bleaching removes the hair’s natural pigmentation. No plant has the ability to do this. That’s why a true plant-based color can never lighten the hair. What it can do, however, is make it look more luminous by adding golden highlights or richer tones, but not by lifting its natural color.

There are indeed some less aggressive bleaching products today compared to the past, often enriched with mineral ingredients like clay. However, their base formulation remains chemical, and they still require hydrogen peroxide to work. Simply put: bleaching without oxidant is impossible.

In summary…

While bleaching without oxidants (lightening hair without chemical agents) is unfortunately not an option, there is a safe and effective alternative to oxidative dyes: plant-based coloring. It is the only oxidant-free color available on the market, and there are countless reasons to go natural. Not only is it 100% safe and 100% biodegradable, but plant-based coloring also gently coats the hair with its pigments while preserving the natural structure of the fiber.

The result? Naturally beautiful, strong, and vibrant hair. Once you try it, we bet you’ll never look back!