Focus on color without oxidant

Even though hair coloring has become a completely everyday practice, so much so that most consumers trust the dyes offered in supermarkets or by their hairdressers without asking many questions, these products still deserve special attention. In this article, we explain why you should approach the oxidizing agents contained in chemical dyes with caution.

The oxidant, what is it actually?

The oxidant is an essential component of conventional, that is, chemical hair coloring. It consists mainly of hydrogen peroxide, which opens the cuticle of the hair and thus allows synthetic pigments to penetrate. There are oxidizing creams with or without ammonia, but beware of misleading advertising!

If a hair dye is labeled “ammonia-free,” the ammonia is inevitably replaced by another chemical molecule that performs the same function, often one that is even more harmful. Ammonia itself has been demonized because of its pungent, irritating odor, but in reality, it is a naturally occurring gas, unlike its substitutes.

Why should you avoid hair dyes with oxidant?

Because they are applied directly to the scalp, an area of the body covered with very thin skin and supplied with many blood vessels, oxidants, and oxidation dyes in general, are harmful to health. Recent studies, for example, have established a link between the frequent use of chemical hair dyes and an increased risk of breast cancer in women.

In addition, these hair dyes carry a high risk of allergy. Most commercially available oxidation dyes contain paraphenylenediamine (PPD), a highly allergenic ingredient that can cause severe and serious reactions.

The hairdressing industry still vividly remembers the case of Estelle, a 19-year-old student who nearly died from suffocation after using an oxidation dye. The young woman shared shocking photos of her completely swollen face after being hospitalized due to a severe allergic reaction to PPD—images that shed light on the dangers of this substance.

Today, it is estimated that 2 to 3% of the population is allergic to PPD, and the Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité (INRS) considers this substance toxic by inhalation and skin contact. The American Contact Dermatitis Society, a U.S. organization specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of dermatitis, even declared PPD the “Allergen of the Year” in 2006.

In addition to their harmful effects on health, conventional hair dyes are also damaging to the hair fiber: by opening the cuticle, they permanently alter the hair’s structure. With each application, the hair loses quality: it dries out, lengths and ends tend to break easily, and shine is lost. On top of this comes the well-known “root effect”, that unsightly “barcode look” which is especially noticeable with white hair. It forces people to dye their hair very frequently, creating a true vicious cycle.

Another important argument: oxidation dyes are not biodegradable and are therefore harmful to the environment. Choosing a color without oxidant also means making a contribution to protecting the planet, particularly by preserving groundwater.

Only one solution: plant-based coloring

Contrary to what the big names in the conventional cosmetics industry and advertising claim, there are only two types of hair coloring:

oxidation coloring (chemical coloring)
natural hair dye

All so-called hybrids such as “semi-vegetal coloring” or “tone-on-tone coloring” are simply misleading: either a coloring requires chemical ingredients (including the well-known oxidant) to color the hair fiber, or it is composed exclusively of pure, 100% natural dye plants, to which only water is added.

From this point on, recognizing an oxidation dye becomes easy: if the coloring consists of several components that need to be mixed before application (for example, a “cream” and a “developer”), then it is an oxidation dye. A plant-based dye, on the other hand, usually comes in powder form; the natural coloring plants are dried and ground into powder to unleash their full power.

And what about bleaching?

Here too, misuse and greenwashing are widespread. Despite the tempting promises of some advertising campaigns, it is simply impossible to bleach hair 100% naturally: bleaching means, by definition, removing the hair fiber’s natural pigmentation. No plant is capable of this. That is why a true plant-based color can never lighten the hair. Giving it golden highlights and more radiance, yes. Lightening it, no.

There are indeed bleaching products today that are less aggressive than those of a few years ago and are often enriched with mineral ingredients such as clay. If you must bleach, it’s better to use these gentler formulas. But you should be aware that the basis of their formulation is still chemical. These products need hydrogen peroxide to work: bleaching without oxidant is simply impossible.

In summary…

Bleaching without oxidant (that is, lightening hair without a chemical agent) is unfortunately not possible. However, there is an alternative to oxidation coloring: plant-based coloring. It is the only hair color without oxidant available on the market, and there are plenty of reasons to choose the natural option!

Because plant-based coloring is not only 100% healthy and 100% biodegradable, it gently coats the hair with its pigments and preserves the hair structure. The result? Naturally beautiful, strong, and resilient hair. We bet you’ll never want to go back!